“CHABLIS SHOULD BE MEAN”


Feature, Our Wines / Tuesday, April 30th, 2019

“In talented hands Chablis can satisfy both the senses and the intellect. As I have written before, a friend once opined that Chablis should not kowtow in front of the wine-lover, do whatever it takes to please. “Chablis should be mean,” he averred, implying that the finest Chablis wines are uncompromising, challenging and cerebral. I concur. The world is full of fabulous Chardonnay but only few of them can call themselves Chablis. So why not be different? Why not ask questions? Why not encourage the oenophile to pause and reflect upon what they are drinking? Where else offers a mirror image of land and season like Chablis? Neal Martin Vinous Media

Domaine Seguinot Bordet Old Vines Chablis 2017 $33.95 per bottle / 12 packs

The 2017 Chablis Vieilles Vignes, which comes from 55, 78 and 106-year-old vines (the latter representing between 10% and 20% of the final blend), is certainly cut from a different cloth compared to the regular Chablis. Initially it is much stricter on the nose, but opens up with wonderful candle wax and jasmine aromas. The palate is well balanced with a fine line of acidity, slightly waxy in texture with hints of dried honey and white peach towards the long finish. Drink now or over the next 5-7 years; this is another very fine Chablis.

91 Points Tim Atkin MW Decanter