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Our Wines / Friday, February 9th, 2024

2022 De La Riva – Macharnudo – San Cayetano – Jerez – Spain. $139.95 per bottle – 3 or 6 packs.
– This white wine is sourced from the famed palomino parcel El Notario, situated in Macharnudo Alto. Grapes were hand-harvested at the end of August, given 6-8 hours on skins before being pressed and wild yeast fermented in 600L bota at ambient temperature, and aged under flor for 20 months. This style of white wine was typical in Jerez in the early 1900s, and was a signature style of the de la Riva bodega.                            
Macharnudo is a legendary vineyard dating back to 1269 where the most prestigious Sherry wineries have produced world-renowned wines. Some of the most internationally acclaimed wines in Spanish history have emerged from these vineyards being selected in 2022 as one of the 10 most important vineyards in the world according to Decanter magazine.
 
Press Reviews; 
98/100  Jane Anson.
“This brilliant dry white wine from the Jerez region of Spain that uses a hint of the flor ageing technique but is bone dry. One of the most exciting wines on the Place this September, just arrestingly gorgeous, bursts through the palate, powerful twist of grilled salted almonds, with soaring acidity alongside juiced lime and lemon, crushed oyster shell, stretched out and thought-provoking. Tiny production from a 4ha site of 6,000 bottles. The latest wine from an increasingly productive partnership between Ramiro Ibáñez and Willy Perez aimed at reviving the historic Sherry brand Manuel Antonio De la Riva. Get on board. Vino di Pasto, by the way, refers to unfortified wines – definitely something to remember and look out for when getting to grips with what is happening in Xeres today.” – Jane Anson         
 
96/100  Wine Advocate
“The 2022 Macharnudo San Cayetano Vino de Pasto is an unfortified Palomino from Sherry soils, from the famous Macharnudo vineyard in Jerez. The grapes were sun dried for a few hours, and the wine has less biological influence and more limestone influence despite having aged under a veil of flor yeasts; it comes from a plot of more concentration than the regular Macharnudo. 2022 was already an intense vintage; they wanted to avoid the wine being too heavy, and the wine shows superb. The La Escribana also comes from the Macharnudo vineyard, but this wine comes from a different plot in Macharnudo, an adjacent plot of very old vines (older than the others), looking for finesse and definition in the palate. It is more of a white wine than a flor wine. It was a dry year, and despite everything, the wine finished with a moderate 13.5% alcohol. The regular Macharnudo they had produced since 2016 will now include the name of the plot, El Notario, to distinguish it from these new bottlings. This 2022 has a powdery, chalky mouthfeel, very much the expression of the albariza calcareous soils. It doesn’t have high acidity but has very good freshness and balance and a tasty minerality that makes you salivate; it’s super tasty. This should bloom with a couple of years in bottle. There are some 6,000 bottles. It was bottled in July 2023. This is not in the Jerez/Sherry appellation, but there’s an initiative to create a separate appellation of origin for these unfortified white wines.” – Luis Gutierrez  
 
96/100  The Drink Business
“White peach, apricot skin and a gentle, delicate, light florality. A little saffron and peach stone, almond and walnut shell. Searing acidity but such richness and a beautifully diaphanous texture. Hyper saline. Wondrous and wonderfully waxy in its mouthfeel. Very different. Shockingly fresh on the long vibrant finish. Very long with laser-like linearity. Excellent. Highly original and very exciting. This is quite a discovery.” – Colin Hay