GOOD THINGS COME TO THOSE WHO WAIT

“Didier Darviot likes to work at his own pace – his sites often see him harvesting later, his cold cellar leads to a particularly slow malolactic fermentation (often taking one year) and inevitably, his wines are shipped right at the end! However, good things come to those who wait and it is undeniable that this quiet, unassuming couple are producing some of the most exciting Meursault in the village. We also adore the Volnay Les Blanches, a vineyard that can be unforgiving, but in Darviot’s hands, it finds a warmth and, dare we say, soul.

Didier and daughter Alix Anne Darviot are quintessential vignerons; a tightly knit team that oversees every phase of the wine making process from pruning and plowing to racking the casks and bottling on their own premises. Didier learned the trade from his father-in-law Pierre Perrin who was a legendary figure in the wine making echelons of Meursault and Volnay.”

White:

2020, Beaune Longbois. 88-90 Points

“This will be bottled at the domaine for the first time, the grapes coming from a relatively recent plantation (15 years ago) at the top of the hill above Beaune. Clear pale lemon yellow, a faint reduction, in part a reflection of the stony hillside site. Understated, pure and fine.”

24 btls available. $94.95 per bottle.

2020, Meursault Clos de la Velle. 89-91 Points

“A clos of one hectare split between the two branches of the Darviot family. There is more depth of fruit here, powerful compared to the Bourgogne and Beaune, sturdy even. Clearly a lower ground style of Meursault with gusto and even a touch of tannin. Medium to long finish.”

24 btls available. $119.95

2020, Meursault Genevrières 1er Cru, 94-96 Points

“From the upper part. Light pale lemon colour. The nose is beautifully complex, with delicious light lime blossom and juniper notes, very elegant. Sublime on the palate too, just the right acidity, no interference from the barrel, just a beautiful wine.” 30 btls available. $234.95

2020, Meursault Perrières 1er Cru. 94-97 Points

“A little fuller in colour and here the barrel toast returns. At first before powerful and mineral Perrières fruit pushes it to one side. As you would expect this is the most powerful wine of the three, but once again made with exquisite delicacy and balance. Very long indeed.

18 btls available. $279.95 per bottle.

2020, Meursault Charmes 1er Cru. 93-95 Points

“From the upper part. Pale lemon colour. Here the fruit wins the day over the barrel, clearly quite fresh as well. This is a racy mineral style of Charmes, really delicious and with tensile strength, otherwise rather fine boned. Long finish once again.” 24 btls available. $214.95 per bottle

2020, Chassagne-Montrachet Les Blanchots Dessus 1er Cru. 93-96 Points

“There was a demand to have this vineyard instated as grand cru Blanchots-Bâtard-Montrachet – Pierre-Antonin has interesting insights on this – but really only the plots on the upper slope clinging to the boundary with Montrachet (i.e. the Jean-Claude Bachelet and Darviot-Perrin holdings) might reasonably be candidates. Clear pure mid yellow. Lovely mix of white fruit and a little toasty reduction. Some limes in the fruit mix, a little more weight than most of the Meursaults, some barrel tannins at the finish. Still very youthful and certainly promising.”

24 btls available. $270.95 per bottle.

RED

2020, Chassagne-Montrachet Les Bondues 1er Cru. 89-92 Points

“Rich purple black, with a powerful but undetailed nose. Plums and deep raspberries start to emerge, somewhat saline behind with a touch of blood orange. Slightly firmer tannins here, this wine may well develop more personality later on. The vines are ancient and I suspect there is more to come. Just a cautious rating for now.” 24 btls available. $114.95 per bottle.

2020, Volnay Santenots 1er Cru. 88-91 Points

“From the Les Plures sector. Deep crimson purple. Rich and plummy, not all that fine. Not cooked but still ripe with strawberry and plum notes, fills the mouth nicely with some length. This needs to develop more finesse further down the road, as it well may.” 12 btls available.

$154.95 per bottle.

2017, Chassagne-Montrachet Les Bondues 1er Cru.  92 Points

“From very old vines in a subsection of Chenevottes. Glowing purple in colour, with such energy of fruit. A little tannin to finish, but deep ripe cherry, very delicious. I purchased some of this and have drunk the first bottle with similar results. It is backward though, despite the relatively open style of 2017 reds, and will repay keeping.” 48 btls available. $125.95 per bottle

All ratings by Jasper Morrison – Inside Burgundy.

A note on the 2020 vintage: The balance of the wines is excellent: acidities are brisk and often piercing; alcohols rarely surpass 13.5%; and the fruit profile is firmly in the citrus-and-white-fruit camp. Where in ’19 the boundaries between quality levels and villages were sometimes blurred, the hierarchy is clearly respected in ’20. The firm acid profile offers plenty of rigour and a rigid skeleton, balanced perfectly by a concentrated fruit character. This combination means the wines will offer pleasure from the start.